I like to learn about a place by taking self guided walking tours (just another way of saying I wander around with nothing more than a general direction in mind). Shanghai is a perfect place for doing this, safe and accommodating; I feel more comfortable wandering through any given neighborhood here, more so than in any city in the USA. Yesterday, I walked from our apartment in Pudong, took the ferry across the Huangpu River, and walked in a northwest direction through some of the streets of Old Shanghai to the Old City Gods Temple, adjacent to the YuYuan Gardens. And then back again. The streets and alleys were bustling with activity: cooking, eating, cleaning, selling, buying, building, playing! It was all happening, here.